Japanese Ice Bear Waterstone 250 1000 Grit
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King Ice Bear in Sharpening
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For the serious Bushcraft enthusiast, crafts person, or ANYONE that uses a cutting tool, Japanese Waterstones are a must to keep your equipment in tip-top condition.
If you want your cutting tool to work at optimum performance, then give it the respect it deserves.
The sharper your cutting tool, the safer it is to use.
Japanese Waterstones are suitable for Bushcraft Knives, Cooking Knives, Leather Knives, Fishery Knives, Axes, Straight Razors, Plane Blades, Chisels, Gouges, and other blades used in Woodworking, Agriculture, Gardening, Stock Raising and Forestry - just about ANY cutting tool!!
How To Use
- Fill the stone with water by submerging it before use (10-15 minutes should be ample).
- When sharpening, keep the stone wet by sprinkling it with water as required and flush often to clear away any swarf (fine metallic shavings removed by the stone from the edge of the blade) to expose fresh cutting particles.
The 250 Grit
This side of the stone is used on blades that are very badly worn and/or need the edge of the blade re-ground. This grit will cut with amazing speed to remove badly nicked edges, grinding the edge in preparation for further honing. We would recommend an intermediate grit (a 400 grit and/or an 800 grit) be used before moving on to the 1000 grit side.
The 1000 Grit
This side of the stone is used to flatten the back of the blade and form the edge, the most important part of your cutting tool. It does this by removing any nicks or imperfections on the edge of the blade to form the bevel. Further honing with a 1200 grit or above would be recommended after using this side of the stone.
This combination waterstone measures 205x50x25mm
Handy Hints
Always work up from coarse grits to finer grits.
The coarser the grit, the more metal will be removed.
The finer the grit, the longer it will take to remove the same amount of metal.
If you have nicks to remove it can take a long time if the stone you are working on is too fine.
If it is taking forever to remove nicks, you need to move back to using a coarser stone.
Depending on just how bad the blade edge is you may want to start with a lower grit stone.
For blades in need of serious restoration, start with a 220 or 240 grit.
For badly worn edges, a 400 grit would be low enough to start with.
The 800 grit stone is probably the starting grit for most users.
A good indication of needing to start sharpening your blade is that you are probably putting indentations on the items you are trying to cut, rather than actually cutting them!!
At this point, the 800 grit would be a good place to start.
If you are not quite at the indentation stage, you will be able to start with a 1000 or 1200 grit stone, steadily working up the grits to the finer stones of 4000, 6000, 8000 and 10000 grit.
Soak the stones long enough so that the water is still visible on the surface. If you have not soaked the stones for long enough you will get a muddy surface instead of the finer slurry that you should have. Remember to keep sprinkling the surface of the stone as you work or the stone will dry out.
For finer stones of 6000 grit and above, use a Nagura stone to create the slurry before you start. This slurry can also be used to polish the areas you are not sharpening. Use a cloth or rag to take some of the slurry and rub it in to the areas required.
Always clean the surface of your stones of the black deposit that is left. This deposit is the particles of metal that have been shaved from the surface of your cutting tool.
Note
We understand that having a full set of stones all the way up through the grits can be expensive, therefore we offer a range of combination stones and various different sets to help you get the best to suit your needs. Why not try adding one each month until you have the perfect sharpening system - it will be one of the best investments you will ever make!
Stay Sharp at World Of Survival!!!